Friday, April 28, 2006

Hey

Hello everyone!
This has been an insane couple of weeks for me and I am just getting back to Tours for the first time in awhile. I have a good blog I wrote about London, but my computer is having some issues and I will have to post it soon. I love you all!

Sunday, April 23, 2006

Nantes!!

Bonjour everyone!
I hope you all had a good week. Tija and I went on a trip to Nantes, which is Brittany, the north-west part of France. We had an awesome time! Our hotel was big, nice, centrally located and inexpensive. The first day we did a little sightseeing and some shopping and finished the night off by going to see the French movie "Asterix et Les Vikings." Asterix is a French comic that is very popular here, and they made a Disney-type movie of it. We both loved the movie and had no problem understanding it.
The next day we got up early and hit the town hard! We got a day pass so we could ride the tram and visit the Museums for free. We saw the old chateau, a really good art museums (it even had some Picassos and Klandinskys), a museum of Natural History (in which there was a room that simulated being on Mars, so we took a picture of our ourselves pretending to be on Mars), an archeology museum, the cathedral, etc. It was exhausting and very fun. We took lots of time though, to come back to the hotel, watch French TV and take naps.
The third day we visited a huge, beautiful park and the weather was so nice it was borderline hot. I was actually getting all sweaty walking around. We went to the Palais Justice and strolled around the landmarks again. By the second day, I was so good at navigating the city, I didn't hardly glance at my map. (For those of you who know my usual navigational skills, that is a pretty big deal.)
The best thing though, is we spent a lot of time just sitting in cafes with a glass of wine or an orangina or snaking on French pastries. It was wonderful to sit and reflect on how much I love this country and how beautiful it is. Hanging out with Tija did a lot to restore my happiness in France and this experience. We both have had out ups and downs, but are realizing our dreams in living here. This really will be one of the best experiences of my life, and I have changed and learned so much I can't believe it sometimes. For the first time in awhile, I am not counting the days until I leave, but am enjoying every minute. I am very happy with France right now.

Wednesday, April 19, 2006

French Kiss

Bonjour!
Jeez, just one comment on the last blog? I thought it was a good one...
Well, things have been nuts for me. I feel like a college student again, and I don't know if that's a good or a bad thing. I have been hanging out with the other Americans and it has been awesome. They have been lots of fun, and are all really nice. I only regret we didn't start haning out sooner.
Yesterday, Trice and I went out to a privately-owned chateau with an American woman who lives here to try and help set up their music system (looong story of how this came to be). It was really cool. It was an ancient castel, but was all set-up to have modern appliances and a pool. The people who own it are incredibly rich, and we had a good time poking around. After we were done there, we visted the huge, publicly owned castle in Langais. The American woman was nice enough to show us around and pay for us to see the castle. She also drove us to and from Tours. We had gotten up that morning at 7:30am to run errands, and after a day of sight-seeing and driving around, I was exhausted.
This was a shame because I was supposed to hang out with a guy here and ended up being 6 hours late because of the chateau excursion. And there is simply no excuse for six hours late. See, I am attempting the incredibly hard task of dating. Not only do I have no phone, etc, the guy doesn't speak English, and my French is only so-so. You think first dates are awkward in the US? Try one where you have no idea what the other person's standards, customs, etc. are, and you can barely talk to each other. I have no idea if I am being too forward, too shy, too anything. Needless to say, its not going so well. I have a tendency to get tired speaking French and zone out what he says, and he gets very angry when I do this. And with my accent, if he doesn't understand something I say, he usually just blows it off and I get annoyed and this too. I think it will be an incredibly short-lived relationship. Living in another country is weird.

Monday, April 17, 2006

Joyeuse Paques!

Bonjour all!
I hope you had a lovely Easter. Mine went as well as it could have considering I am on the other side of the planet as my family.
On Saturday, I met up with Tija, Trice and Jess (the other Americans) to paint Easter Eggs. It was awesome to get to do a tradition from home. It was kind of rough though, to be painting eggs with girls I have only known for a couple months as opposed to my family. I had a hard time being too cheerful, despite how nice they all were. All the Islamic people came out of their rooms to watch us. They obviously don’t celebrate Easter, and were unfamiliar with the concept of Easter Eggs. They thought it was fascinating, and kept asking us if they could drink the dye.
After that, we got all dressed up and went to a candlelight service at a local Catholic church, L’Eglise de St. Jean. It was really awesome for me. I have a fondness for church services, especially when I’m a little sad. They are so uplifting and hopeful, especially on Easter. I also really liked the formality of the Catholic clergyman with their white robes and practiced rituals. It was fascinating to watch. I was really touched when the whole church was dark except for the softly glowing candles, and all you could hear was the chanting and singing in French. It was beautiful, and a memory I won’t soon forget. We had a bit of a hard time keeping up since it was all in French and the priest talked in that weird sing-songy way that they use in catholic churches, but it is amazing how much you can blend in just by watching other people and doing what they do. I have become an expert at this. At midnight, I walked home feeling happy and fulfilled, despite the distance between my loved ones and me.
On Sunday, I got up late, ate some pain chocolat (which makes up about a third of my diet along with nutella) and went over to Tija’s room. All of us made short work of the Easter eggs we made yesterday. Again, it was so nice to have them to hang out with today, but it still made me a bit homesick doing traditional Easter-type things. Being here in France scarfing hard-boiled eggs covered with little color spots from where the dye leaked through the shells definitely tugged at my heartstrings.
I also got to talk with my family, though, which was really nice. I don’t think I have ever appreciated how lucky I am to have my family until I have had to be away from them for so long! As you can tell, I spend lots of time thinking and talking about them. All of us here are torn between enjoying Europe as long as possible, and getting home as soon as we can. I think I will stay for about a week after classes wrap up, (around May 25th) but I am so looking forward to coming home.

Friday, April 14, 2006

Happy Easter!

Bonjour, all!
Today was interesting. I went to the main classroom building (which has been blockaded since Monday) to turn in a test paper. The basement (where the offices are) was completely gutted. Bulletin boards ripped off the wall, previously
undisturbed classrooms were missing all their chairs and desks, doors ripped off hinges, etc. I am assuming the students did this. The office I was going to was pretty much gone. The teacher mailboxes had been ripped off the wall and the offices were empty. It was kind of creepy. Needless to say, I couldn’t turn in my test.
Also, I am getting a little frustrated with UW. They are starting to give me as vague answers as I’ve been getting at Tours. I realize this situation in new to everyone, but I don’t know whether to freak out about passing classes here, or just relax and know I can do it all when I get home. I just want to sit down and go class by class with someone and get it all worked out. This whole thing stinks.
You want to know one interesting thing? In my French culture class (one of the few running) we were discussing stereotypes of different cultures across the globe. The instructor gave us a list of groups of people and another with the different stereotypes and we had to match them up. Some were hilarious, and many I had no idea existed. The best ones were for the Americans, though. Translated, Americans are known across the globe for being, “tall and muscular because they have had good nutrition since they were babies. Also, they drink milk at every meal, are interested in the private lives of their politicians and are white and black.” I thought these were very funny. The one that I thought was the best was the first part about how we are tall and muscular. Than I realized I am taller than most girls here, and certainly in better shape than all of them. I bet I could take on all the girls here, as well as most of the guys. While Americans are not the thinnest people, we seem to be the only ones who really value working out and being toned.
(These are some of my American friends I hung out with this week.)
I think Americans are also the only people I have met who are constantly concerned over whether or not they could personally kick the asses of people in every other nation across the world. This just doesn’t seem like a big goal to many other peoples, but the Americans here and at home (Steven) seem to be wrapped up in this.
America really is a very, very unique country. In comparison to old Europe, it just seems so much younger, more enthusiastic, more superficial, more egotistical, more efficient and more organized. Maybe I am just missing what I am used to, but I feel a real deep love for my home country, and I wish more Americans felt the same.
I am officially on Spring Break! I have a couple trips coming up and am greatly looking forward to them. Then, only about 3 more weeks until I am home! Where I will make you all look at pictures and tell you stories until you can’t stand me anymore!
Also, I bought a 1 kg chocolate egg for myself since I'll be alone on Easter.

Wednesday, April 12, 2006

Pauvre chevaux!

Bonjour!
I hope you are all doing well. I am caught up in French limbo, as usual. As I predicted, the student/union crusade is not yet over. While the controversial element of the job law (CPE) has been rescinded and the general strikes have stopped, students and unions are using their political power to see what else they can get. France is in a very precarious position. It is swelling with a new wave of people who are unhappy with the status quo, and yet has a general population that is determined that French life remains unchanged. I have been reading up on the huge strike that shook France in May 1968, and I can tell you it is nothing like this one, despite comparisons in the news. This is not just a group of anarchist students mad with the government and police brutality. In some ways it is more superficial, and in others it really delves into the problems in France. I think it is a silly movement that is more about principle and power than any actual legislative policy. I think it has roots going deep into French society, and only illustrates a part of the larger problem France faces. Also, students here are practically living in the classroom buildings that are blocked and look as if they haven’t bathed for weeks. Its really gross, and I here they are also doing this at the Sorbonne in Paris. I don’t want to sound too harsh, but they honestly remind me of a big nest of rats.
In my news, I failed one midterm and passed another last week. I have no idea yet how or even if these grades will count towards anything, but I am trying not to let things get to me. I was really depressed after failing that test and finding out I missed another (if that gives you any idea about how crazy it is here), but then I saw an art exhibit with National Geographic-type images of poor and working people in India. It made me think and realize that I have an incredibly privileged life and am stupid for letting little things always get to me. How many other 19 year olds have been able to do the things I have? Or have the family and friends that I do? A lot of this school stuff is out of my power and all I can do is go to classes as often as I can and do my best. This will probably be my only chance to live in Europe, and I should try to enjoy as much as I can. Also, spring has sprung and Tours is lovely right now. I took this picture of one of fountains in front of the Hotel de Ville. Plus, things are actually winding down. This is technically the last week of classes, but there are still no classes. I think I am ready to just cut my losses, throw everything into UW’s lap to deal with, and enjoy the rest of the time I am here. Traveling always improves my mood, and a Croatian/American girl that I am friends with is also stuck here this next week and we are going to try to plan a vacation. And after that, London! I have learned and done SO much here…but unfortunately none of it has been in a classroom.
Oh, and you want to know something horrible? French people eat horsemeat! I can forgive them for snails and rabbits, but not for this. They even have it in the grocery store. Here’s a pic I took. “Cheval” is French for horse. Tchykita wanted to try it, but that is the one thing I will not eat. Tawny would never forgive me.

Tuesday, April 11, 2006

La Greve

Hey everyone! Just to update you on the current situation, the strike itself all but over! It is kind of a big surprise.
Here is what a recent Reuters article in an on-line British newspaper said:
PARIS (Reuters) - French President Jacques Chirac scrapped a youth job law on Monday after weeks of angry unrest, in a climbdown that undermined his prime minister and handed protesters victory.
Chirac's decision was a personal blow to Prime Minister Dominique de Villepin, who had championed the First Job Contract (CPE) as a vital job-creating reform of the French economy but had seen his popularity slump as mass opposition grew.
The government U-turn over the CPE makes it unlikely France will attempt broader reform of its highly-regulated labour market before 2007, some economists said.
Villepin said in a television address he regretted that the strikes and street protests showed the CPE could not be applied.
" The necessary conditions of confidence and calm are not there, either among young people, or companies, to allow the application of the First Job Contract," Villepin said, adding he would open talks with unions on youth employment.
A protest march in Paris planned for Tuesday should show whether student anger over the contract has abated.
In one sign student protests could be dwindling, the education ministry said only five universities were closed or disrupted by strikes.”
Interesting, huh? Basically Chirac caved "like a little girl" as my dad put it. I have no idea yet how this will affect me. Francois Rabelais happens to be one of those five universities, and we actually only have two weeks of scheduled classes left. As soon as I read this article Monday morning, I went in to try to see if the main University building was open. It was just as blocked as usual, as were the other University buildings across town. However, it is now Tuesday and the University remains blocked. Students now want ANOTHER part of the same bill to be pulled and are keeping the university closed.
This, I think, may be a devastating blow to France’s economy and government. Not only will the CPE not be passed to fix the incredibly high youth unemployment problem, but this shows the utter power unions have over France. While it is likely that the strikes will cease now that the government has caved, it is likely, in my opinion, that the unions will want to flex their political muscle over other issues very soon. However, not only is this a defeat for the important economic policies themselves, but for the fragile social structure in France. I believe that this strike could have been a major turning point for French society over who had more strength, the unions or the government. This was a battle fought with Margaret Thatcher in Britain and Ronald Reagan in the US, with the government being victorious both times resulting in a better, healthier system in the long-run. However, as it stands, France could just be on the verge of major problems brewing over the horizon. It is currently the most xenophobic, anti-globalization country in the European Union and has growing social and economic problems from government-union clashes to extreme problems with racism and class discrimination. I seriously think things are going to get worse before they get better.
On a lighter note, the other night Tchykita and I got really bored and she dared me to eat a piece of bread soaked in ranch dressing and wine that had gone bad, and I did it. Now, she has to buy me two sugar crepes.

Monday, April 10, 2006

Looong weekend

Hello everyone!
I am currently a wee bit bored...
Tchykita went to Paris for the weekend with her boyfriend who came to visit and I'm a little alone. Like hardcore, in-your-face, have nowhere to go, no one to talk to, alone. If you would like to give me a phone call and ameliorate this problem, my mother has my phone number and would gladly give it to you.
However, being alone is interesting because so few people (especially at my age) know what it is like to be entirely on your own, despite our constant insistence we are totally independent and should be allowed to stay out as late as we want over breaks. For someone who grew up in a close family with a twin sister, had extremely close friends in high school, and went in-state for college, I don't think I have ever really been entirely on my own before. However, the cool thing about it is...I can do it. Even here in France where everything tiny thing is different, I can take care of myself, get myself places and communicate with no help or guidance whatsoever. It’s a little scary, but is also a really powerful feeling. Not too many adults can do what I'm doing, and that makes the French sun a little brighter on this lonely day.
Also, I saw a line of catepillars going down the sidewalk like ants. I was very impressed.
Well, in CPE news, there is no news. Both sides are taking a break until after Easter in which they will relax and recoup. One of two things will happen: One, they will forget their differences and decide to come together to build a stronger, better France, or two, they will get refreshed after going home, doing laundry and eating some Easter chocolate and go at it all over again, fighting like cats and dogs. I can tell you which of these things I think will happen...
One cool thing: I wrote an article for the Branding Iron, my college paper, and sent it in with some photos. They are interested in publishing it, and I am actually pretty happy about that.
I took the time Saturday to do a drawing of all the strikers in Place du Carousel outside the Louvre.
Besides that, I have spent a better part of the day doing laundry. I try to do this as rarely as possible, and I thank God I brought as many socks and underwear as I did. At my dorm, there are only two washers and two dryers for the 300+ people that live in Grandmont. And currently, one of the washers and one of the dryers are broken. Doing laundry requires bringing all your clothes down and waiting for upwards of 45 minutes for the one washer to be open. Once you get your clothes in, you have to check it repeatedly to make sure no one takes your clothes out and puts theirs in. It gets pretty cutthroat. Also, it is very expensive as well as time consuming to do multiple loads, so I have figured out how to wash everything in two, and dry them all at once. “Dry” however, is a relative term. The dryer doesn’t work very well, so usually after I try and do laundry, my room is covered with wet clothes drying out for the next week. Plus, the climate here is so humid that if you don’t get your clothes dry fast, they will mildew. I rotate my clothes in my room to the driest places like my radiator, etc, and even use a hairdryer. Just figured you should know the effort I go through so I can wear my little “pajama” shirts, as well as everything else. J However, it is nice to have everything clean again, even if I have to do a lot of it by hand. I’m so clean now it’s ridiculous. Just today, I scrubbed my shower, did dishes, swept the floor, reorganized and cleaned my desk and shelves, did laundry and made my bed. For anyone who knows my normal habits (Cait and Rachel), this should be amazing.
You know what rainbow trout is in French? "la truite arc-en-ciel." Or “trout (with) arc in the sky” I liked that.

Friday, April 07, 2006

Mais oui!

Bonjour, tout le monde!
I believe Jeff hit the nail on the head in analyzing the character of France. They are exactly like that! Rioting in the streets through all the school days, on then on weekends, it’s time for chocolate! Or wine! Or bread and cheese! But you know, all those things are almost worth putting up with all the other stuff.

This week was no different. The strikes are continuing and it is hard not to get all depressed going to my worthless, terribly confusing classes in between fun-filled weekends. In CPE news, the law is set to pass and unions and student groups are still threatening action, but get this: they are not going to do anything until after Easter. Basically, these passionate, earnest, driven strikers who have been shutting the whole country down every week still want their Spring Break. Shows how much they really care about the cause versus how fun it is to march and protest when its convenient, doesn’t it? And the worst part is, they are going to get what they want. After all this crap, the government is still negotiating with them and the stupid law may get rescinded or watered down after all. This is enough to drive any sane person mad, which is where I feel I’m headed half the time living here.
Fortunately tomorrow I have my wonderful class, (the only one I like) Histoire de l’Art, taught by an extremely intelligent, enthusiastic and entertaining Frenchman. It is the only class I am really learning in, and I really enjoy it. Art has always been my saving grace, and is proving again to be just that. Also, our final test is a test on Impressionism! I could take a test on impressionism in any language and ace it.
Last night was great. Tchykita and I went to the fabulous Chez Leon (a Brussels-originated restaurant that specializes in moules ) for dinner. My dad was kind enough to send us 50 Euros specifically to go there since we were unable to get moules when my family was here visiting. We splurged, getting two delicious plates of moules with a pitcher of rose wine. (It is kind of funny, Tchykita likes white wine and I like red, but we both like rose. It really is the perfect compromise). After finishing my huge plate of moules a la escargot gratinee (mussels with butter, garlic basil and cheese), the manager came over and offered me a second plate for free. There was nothing about this on the menu, but how could I resist? I got another whole huge plate of moules avec tomate et mozzarella (mussels with tomato sauce and mozzarella) next, for free. Tchykita got moules avec des fruits de mer (mussels with calamari and prawns) and thouroughly enjoyed it. We were positively stuffed and road the bus home full and happy. Thanks so much, Dad! You totally made my day.
Also, my Grandma called and we got to have nice long talk. It was great and really went towards cheering me up even more. Knowing my family and friends are there for me makes me feel so much better about all the stuff I have to go through here. Thanks so much, Grandma!!!

Tuesday, April 04, 2006

Chocolat!

Hello all!
I just managed to take a test today even though there is another general strik going on! It was an epic journey! I waited for a bus that was 15 minutes late (funny story...bus drivers ususally are included in the strikes, but apparently they didn't get paid for the last strike and decided to work today. That shows how much people here care for the cause versus unpaid time off), rode it through who knows where (the regular route was blocked by protesters), got off the bus near the train station, ran/walked briskly for about a mile through town, through the protesters, down the street and got into my class only about 5 minutes late. And all this was to take a freaking test. I had better get those credits!
Well, in CPE news, late last week Jaques Chirac decided to sign the controversial bill into action. He made a few small changes (like changing the number of years that an employee can easily get fired from 2 years to 1) but this did not appease protestors. They called for a new round of general strikes (which is what is going on today) and universities continue to be closed. There is really nothing that labor unions or student protestors can do at this point, and the strike today is more out of anger than anything. There is even a possibility things might open again soon. However, my academic year is pretty much in ruins, and UW is attempting to pick up the pieces as I try to do the best I can here. I technically only have 3 more weeks of school, with a 2 week Spring Break coming up. Can you believe that there will still be a Spring Break after all this time off?
I am happy though, because my weekend was filled with chocolate! They had a "Chocolat en fete (Chocolate fair)" in which they filled a huge hall with confectionaires from every chocolaterie in the region. They even had chocolate boobs, because this is France and they have to have boobs everywhere.
There were booths with amazing chocolate sculptures, creative ideas, and delicious free samples. That is one thing I love about France, the idea of "degustation," or tasting. Every type of fete in Tours usually has lots of free samples and the people running the booths are usually very eager to try to get you to taste their product, which is great unless you are at a wine fair (that can cause some fast problems when you accidently get drunk at 11 am).
The Chocolat fair was awesome, and I left with a full stomach of chocolate and a couple treats. The weather has been lovely too, and I have been in quite a good mood lately.

Bisou!

Sunday, April 02, 2006

Madame V!!!

Bonjooooo,
How you all be? Things have been going well over here (well, for me anyways)! The lovely Madame Vialpando and her tour group passed through Tours, and I was able to meet up with them for dinner. It was hectic trying to get ahold of them because my phone wasn’t working (as usual) and I missed their call when they arrived, but they left a note for me at the hotel, and the brasserie they were at was right nearby. (Its crazy learning how people lived before the fast-paced technology I was accustomed to in the US.)
It was very nice to go in and see a big group of American teenagers sticking out like a bunch of loud, happy, brightly colored, sweatshirt-wearing sore thumbs. And even better was to see Madame V. She was nice enough to include me in their dinner, but I was happily blabbing so much about France, the CPE , the semester, etc. that I could hardly fit in a bite of food. After dinner, all the students and went out in search of dance clubs. Fortunately, the tour guide also went with them. Their tour guide seemed to be a very nice, intelligent, capable woman, but was no Philippe.
We went back to the Hotel with a couple students and the wonderful chaperone/French teacher from East who went with my tour group to France when I was a Senior. We talked about everything from my experiences here to my tour in my Senior year, to their plans for the rest of their vacation. It was extremely good for my soul to see Madame and remember all the wonderful things I came here for and realize all that I have learned here. When I had to drag myself away to catch the bus, I was sad to leave, but I also felt a renewed enthusiasm. Thanks so much, Madame; it was beyond wonderful to see you!!! You have been such a good influence and inspiration for me; the world needs more teachers like you.
Despite the late night, I had to force myself up early to meet Tchykita the next morning. We made travel plans to go to an aquarium in the nearby town of Amboise (For anyone who knows me, I LOVE fish and aquariums and have a big tank at home). We could take an out-of-town bus there for only 2.40 Euros!

We got there early before it opened and occupied ourselves by trying to climb on the giant fish out front.
The aquarium was incredible! I was beyond amazed considering it was near such a small town. It was about twice as big (if not more so) than the Aquarium by the Bay in San Francisco. It also had "helpful" signs in English, like the one below.It had huge tanks of fish from all over the world (every type of
American trout-even brookies) and nocturnal and shark tanks, caimans and turtles from the Amazon as well as the fish that live in the Loire river that runs right through Tours (look up the European wel fish, they are local here and grow to be 2 metres long or more!). The place was huge, and we spent two whole hours there and never saw the same thing twice. We got back to Tours around one, got sugar crepes and came back to the dorms for a nap. What a nice way to spend a Saturday morning, n’est pas?
Also, Tchykita realized we have each been here for 74 days in France. Is that not insane?
Oh, and yes, I dyed my hair again. Its kind of..um..blackish brown. Not sure yet if it was a good idea.